Borjomi Sulphur Pools: Forest Hot Springs Above the Spa Town

The Borjomi Sulphur Pools are a small set of open-air thermal pools fed by warm, mineral-rich spring water in the forested hills above Borjomi — the mineral-water spa town in the Samtskhe-Javakheti region of southern Georgia (the country in the South Caucasus). Reached on foot by a forest trail up the river valley from Borjomi Central Park, or by vehicle along a rough track, they are one of the more genuinely restorative outings in the Borjomi area: informal, set entirely within the forest, and far enough up the gorge that the bustle of the town below feels comfortably distant by the time you arrive. The pools — sometimes called the "Tsars' baths" for their imperial-era origins — are about the natural setting as much as the water: warm mineral bathing in a clearing beside a mountain stream, with the forest all around.

What are the Borjomi Sulphur Pools?

The Borjomi Sulphur Pools are open-air natural thermal pools in the forest about 3 km upstream from Borjomi Central Park, in southern Georgia. The warm, sulfurous mineral water collects in a few basic stone-and-concrete basins in a streamside clearing, surrounded by dense gorge forest. Originally arranged in the Romanov era (the "Tsars' baths") and restored in the mid-2000s, they're reached by a 30–45 minute forest walk from the Central Park or by a rough vehicle track. The appeal is the natural setting and the simple pleasure of warm mineral bathing outdoors — the facilities are very basic, so it's best approached as a rustic forest soak rather than a polished spa.

The water

The water comes from the same broad geothermal system that feeds the famous Borjomi mineral springs in the Central Park, but it differs from the cold, strongly carbonated drinking water down in the town: here it emerges warm and sulfurous, collected into a series of open basins. The temperature is moderate rather than hot — pleasantly warm, varying between the pools and with the season, and some visitors find it cooler than they expect, so set expectations toward "comfortable warm soak" rather than "hot spring." The sulfur gives the water the characteristic faint hydrogen-sulfide odor common to sulfur springs everywhere; it fades as you acclimatize and is simply a natural feature of the water chemistry, not a sign of any contamination.

Sulfur thermal waters like these have a long association with bathing for skin, joint, and circulatory complaints, and local tradition has attributed restorative properties to these pools for as long as they've been known — the imperial and Soviet spa culture of Borjomi was built on exactly that balneological tradition. Whether specific health claims hold up is a matter for the medical and balneological literature, and a soak here is no substitute for medical advice; but the plain pleasure of lying in warm mineral water in a mountain forest needs no scientific justification.

Getting there

The most rewarding approach is on foot from Borjomi Central Park, following the trail that climbs upstream along the river valley for roughly 2.5–3 km — about 30–45 minutes at an easy pace. The path runs through the increasingly dense and beautiful forest of the gorge above the town, the stream alongside throughout and the canopy giving shade in warm weather, and the walk gives arrival at the pools the quality of earned relaxation rather than a simple transfer. (Note that part of the lower route runs through the Central Park, where a small entry fee applies.)

Vehicle access is possible via a forest track branching off near Borjomi, which needs a vehicle with reasonable ground clearance on the unpaved section; a local taxi driver who knows the route is the practical choice for anyone who'd rather not walk both ways. Walking back down through the forest after bathing, with the town gradually reappearing through the trees as the valley widens, makes a satisfying end to the trip.

Seasonal character

The pools are open and enjoyable year-round, but the most atmospheric conditions come in autumn and winter. In autumn the gorge forest turns color, and the warm water amid the changing trees makes a beautiful setting. In winter, when the air is cold and the trees bare or snow-covered, the warm water sends up clouds of steam into the cold forest — a genuinely dramatic sight, and the contrast between warm water and cold air is at its most invigorating. Reaching the pools through a quiet, snow-covered forest is Borjomi at its most atmospheric. Summer is pleasant for the forest walk and the soak, though with the air warm the temperature contrast — and the refreshing thermal effect — is least pronounced, and the pools can get busy.

A note on expectations: this is a rustic, popular spot, not a managed spa. At peak times the small pools can be crowded, and the basic, open-air changing arrangements suit some visitors better than others. Approached for what it is — a simple forest hot spring — it's a lovely experience; approached expecting spa comfort, it can disappoint.

What to bring

• Swimwear and a towel — essential.
• Sandals or waterproof footwear for moving between the pools and over the surrounding ground — strongly recommended.
• A warm layer for afterward — important in cooler seasons, as the move from warm water to mountain air cools you quickly, especially in autumn and winter.
• Changing facilities are basic and open-air; calibrate expectations to a natural outdoor bathing spot rather than an organized spa.

Getting there and visiting

• Location: Forested valley above Borjomi, about 2.5–3 km upstream from Borjomi Central Park, Samtskhe-Javakheti, southern Georgia.
• Getting there: On foot via the forest trail from the Central Park (30–45 min), or by the rough forest vehicle track (local taxi recommended without a suitable vehicle).
• Hours: Accessible in daylight; no fixed closing time.
• Admission: A small fee may apply at the pools, and the Central Park (which the walking route passes through) charges its own small entry fee.
• Best time: Autumn and winter for the most atmospheric bathing (steam in the cold air); year-round otherwise.
• Combine with: Borjomi Central Park and the mineral spring, the cable car, the Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park, and the wider region — Likani (Romanov) Palace, Bakuriani, Akhaltsikhe, Abastumani, and Vardzia.